Remember when surfing was an adventure and it didn’t matter how big the waves were? It was just about having fun, surfing with friends, and simply loving it. That is a way of living, of being, that can last our whole lives. A session yesterday embodied all of those things for me when I took Surf Happens riders Curtis and Hamilton Jacobs, Gavin Eason, and Jesse Freeland on a rainy afternoon surf.
We discovered an offshore reef and the sand was just perfect, nobody out, and the winds offshore and dreamlike. Chest high peelers welcomed the groms into barrel after barrel with perfect cutty sections that linked to other tubes. Pretty classic how Gavin and the twins have the same wetsuits…
When we change our latitude from attitude to gratitude we discover joy.
Gavin Eason carving a stylish cutty. More images here